Fucking Machine

Updated Flywheel

So yeah, when the machine stops fucking mid session it is really no fun. Then you’re just like a primative trying to do things manually… Anyway, the cause of the issue was:

  • The heat generated by the wiper motor in an enclosed case, caused some expansion of the 3d printed flywheel
  • The rotation of the flywheel was clockwise which allowed the nut to get loose.

Because of those two, the nut that secures the flywheel down to the small gripping area of the motor shaft got loose, and the fucking machine thrusts became irregular, or not at all as the flywheel was no longer rotating.

The solution is a new part. I re-designed the 3d printed part to fit around a 5/16th nut, and reversed the polarity of the motor, causing the flywheel to run in a counter clockwise direction.

The outside of the area that captures the nut fits a 19mm socket, so it can be threaded onto the motor shaft and tightened. Should try and see if I can break it again 🙂

Fucking Machine

Fucking Machine Components

This machine is based on a windshield wiper motor which is speed controlled by a hardy motor speed controller.  It can be adjusted from 0 thrusts up to more than 3 thrusts per second if you so desire. The depth of the thrusts can be controlled by the various mounting points on the 3D printed Flywheel.  The maximum depth with this setup is close to 6 inches, but that could be varied per your flywheel design. In our use of it, we have found that a shorter thrust, at a higher thrust per minute is most desireable.  This could lead to a smaller system if you wanted to make modifications so that it was more portable.

Currently, the size of the system is perfect for sitting on a rug or some other non-slip surface and having enough weight that it doesn’t move around at all even when bottoming out on it’s stroke.  Instead it tends to push the subject as it bottoms out. Partially this is due to the design of the feet, they allow for all of the weight of the fucking machine to be concentrated on less than 1 square inch, allowing for a higher weight per square inch.  Use with the bolts alone as feet is perfect for a carpet surface. If it is to be used on a wood or tile floor, and not have the bolts mar the surface in any way, you can use the 3D printed feet, then the device sits on about 4 square inches, but non-slip feet can be added for additional grip.  Because the feet simply unscrew, they are simple to put on or remove as conditions change.

Rod Ends – 

Threaded Rod – 

Bearings – 

5/16th Rod – 

Alluminum U Channel – 

¼ 20 Threaded Inserts to use as adjustable feet support with bolts below – 

¼ 20 Bolts – 

5/16th Universal Pin – 

DIY Squirting Dildo

Making almost any flexible dildo into a squirting dildo.

Before I started this, I thought we’d have to use a dildo that’s sold as a squirting dildo, but we have a favorite dildo that just hits the right spots and wanted to be able to modify it.  As you probably know, using a standard drill bit in a rubber or silicone material just makes a mess. Again the internet assisted here, and I was able to inexpensively make a specialized dildo drilling bit based on how people drill holes into rubber stoppers.

All that you need here is an exacto, drill, a file, lubricant, and a brass tube that is slightly larger on the inside than the outer diameter of tube that you will be using inside the dildo.  The parts below are designed for the tubing listed in the above parts list.

The idea is to sharpen the end of the brass tubing.  That’s why a thin diameter brass tube was selected. By filing the end profile to a blade of sorts (see imagery) you can put it in the drill, and cut a circular core.  The rod fills up with the material you are removing, and it leaves a very clean hole. I ran a test hole first to determine which taper I wanted to go with on the Brass rod.  An external taper makes a hole roughly the size of the inside diameter and it is easier to push through the length. An internal taper makes a hole roughly the size of the outside diameter of the hole.  Tapering both inside and outside the tube gives you a hole somewhere in the middle.

I started the hole from the tip.  Using the exacto knife I cut a slit about 5/8ths of an inch deep, and then spread the two sides apart and inserted the brass tube.  This simulates the actual anatomy, and I think provides a more realistic squirt because the pressure builds up until the cum is able to squirt through the vertical cut.

Use plenty of lube as you core the dildo, the further you go in, the more friction will build.

To insert the silicone tube into your new hole, put it onto a coat hanger or similar item, and lube up the exterior of the silicone tube as much as possible.  Insert from the base, and after you remove the tape at the top, stretch it and trim off ¼ inch and allow it to snap back inside the vertical slot you cut in the beginning.  The tubing should not be visible from the outside. Next, just hook it up and watch the pump drive the simulated cum out!

Fucking Machine Motor

A simple car part…

We’ve wanted to have a machine that could interact with us for a long time now. The cost of buying a pre-built machine for this DIY’r was just too high. I knew the parts didn’t add up to anywhere close to the price that companies were asking for a fuck machine, and I wanted features that others didn’t have. That’s where this project started.

Turns out a windshield wiper motor is perfect to be the muscle in this love machine. It has plenty of torque, and it’s easy to mount a flywheel to turn the motor’s circular motion linear.

Couple this motor with a 12v battery, and a speed controller, and you have adjustability from slow strokes to blow my mind fast strokes at the turn of a dial.

Stay tuned for how this project continues!